Elizabeth Bowen''s account of a time spent in Rome is no ordinary guidebook but an evocation of a city - its history, its architecture and, above all, its atmosphere. She describes the famous classical sites, conjuring from the ruins visions of former inhabitants and their often bloody activities and speculates about the immense noise of ancient Rome, the problems caused by the Romans'' dining posture, and the Roman temperament. She evokes the city''s moods - by day, when it is characterised by golden sunlight, and at night, when the blaze of the moon ''annihilates history''.